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We cover all MG & Rover cars, We are the MG Owners Club & Rover Owners club, combined in one, from Rover 75 to MGZT, from Rover 800 to MGB, we are here for all your MG Rover MGR cars
 

How To's

Clutch replacement.

Unread postby COLVERT » Sat May 06, 2017 10:28 pm

With permission from French Mike.------------------------------ (BOW) (BOW) (BOW) (BOW)



(mexican wave)



(mexican wave)



(mexican wave)




(mexican wave)



(mexican wave)




How To Replace the Clutch and Slave Cylinder without removing the Sub frame and Gearbox

For anyone without access to a pit or a post ramp, replacing the clutch can be a difficult job. The procedure described in the Haynes manual involves complete removal of the front sub frame before the gearbox is detached from the bell housing. The gearbox is then removed completely to allow access to the clutch, flywheel and slave cylinder.
However, it is possible to do the job without these major tasks using ordinary lifting gear and adequate support for the raised body.

I recently replaced the clutch system on my 2002 Rover 75 CDT (100,00 km) using the information provided here: http://www.allpartsautomotive.co.uk/...rbo_Diesel.pdf

The principles involved should be applicable to the other models.

The Haynes manual will be useful for reference when removing peripheral parts such as the fuel burning heater (if fitted).
It also provides all the essential tightening torques.
The manual also recommends replacing the circlip fitted to the inner end of the shorter driveshaft.


Symptoms
Clutch pedal on floor due to fluid leakage from the slave cylinder.



A home made gadget was a clutch plate alignment tool or you can get them from auto shops.
Also used were several blocks of wood of sufficient size (about 30cm long) and strength to carry the car’s weight and to help support the gearbox. These were augmented by substantial concrete blocks as appropriate.

Preparation.
Position the car on firm level ground.
Apply the handbrake and chock the rear wheels front and back.
Slacken the bolts on both front wheels.
Using a trolley jack, lift the front of the car to a height sufficient for you to comfortably work
underneath.

Slide the large wooden blocks/concrete blocks under both front sill jacking points
(this is more secure than axle stands IMO).
Remove the jack so the car is supported on the blocks.
Satisfy yourself that the car is completely safe to work underneath.

Under the Bonnet.
Remove five screws securing the air duct to the bonnet platform and remove the duct.
Disconnect and remove battery and battery carrier.
If fitted, disconnect the fuel burning heater and its mounting frame.
Remove the fuel filter and lift pump frame, move it to engine side and secure it out of the way.
Disconnect the clutch hydraulic pipe at the self-sealing coupling.

Using an open ended spanner (13mm), release gear change inner cables from the gearbox.
Compress the retaining springs and remove the outer cables from the support bracket on the gearbox.

Support the engine/gearbox on a suitable jack cushioned with wood.




Drain the gearbox oil and disconnect reverse lamp switch.

Remove through bolt securing gearbox mounting bracket to gearbox (100Nm)
Notice the disconnected hydraulic pipe with the yellow coloured union.




Remove the four bolts securing gearbox mounting bracket to gearbox (85Nm).

If Master Cylinder is to be Replaced: In the Cab. Remove the driver’s side lower fascia panel (Ref. to Haynes).
Remove two screws and two clips securing trim panel above the pedals and remove panel.
Release clip and remove clevis pin master cylinder push-rod to clutch pedal.


Remove the two bolts securing clutch master cylinder to pedal bracket.
Release clutch pipe grommets under bonnet lower plenum and bulkhead adjacent to pedal bracket.
Remove master cylinder and fluid pipe, manoeuvring clutch pipe through grommet holes.

Fit new master cylinder by reversing the above steps.

Under the Car

Remove the front wheels and wheel arch liners.
Disconnect both ABS sensor leads and the brake wear sensor lead on the driver's side.
Release the downlink lower ball joint (60 Nm) from the stabiliser bar on the nearside.
Disconnect the lower ball joint on both lower suspension arms by removing the nut and bolt securing it to the hub (45 Nm).
When you release the ball joint take care not to damage rubber gaiter.
Protect ball joints with rags, etc.
Remove two bolts (three on 1.8 models) securing the long driveshaft intermediate bearing housing to engine using the 14mm ring spanner. These bolts require a 12-point socket/spanner. A standard 6-point socket will not fit.
Pull hub outwards and withdraw each drive shaft horizontally from the differential. Protect the splines with plastic bags and tape.
Inspect the oils seals in each driveshaft port and renew as necessary.




Remove the four bolts (three easy + one hidden) securing the steering rack to the sub frame and release steering rack from sub frame (open-ended spanner 13mm).




Remove bolt (spanner 10mm) securing closing plate to gearbox.
Disconnect Lucar connector from starter motor solenoid.
Remove nut and disconnect two cables from starter motor solenoid (spanner 13mm).
Remove two bolts (or just the lower nut and bolt) and release engine earth lead from top bolt. Remove the motor.
(If preferred, just slide the motor to the left).
Slacken the three bolts on the offside sub frame mountings and remove the nearside three bolts
securing sub frame mountings to body.
Remove the seven bolts securing gearbox to engine (85 Nm).
Release gearbox from the two dowels.
Manoeuvre and lower gearbox onto sub frame with help of trolley jack and protective wood.
Limit the lowering of the sub frame to 5cm using a block of wood.




The gearbox can now be pulled back sufficiently to allow it to rest on the subframe, giving access to the clutch assembly and flywheel.




Restrain the crankshaft using a socket (22mm) on the pulley bolt.




Progressively loosen and then remove the six bolts securing clutch cover assembly to the flywheel (25 Nm).
Remove clutch cover and the driven (friction) plate. Ensure you get the one with the center springs.




Inspect the Dual Mass Flywheel thoroughly.
There should be no more than 25-30mm of free movement between the two masses. If free movement is excessive, the flywheel should be replaced.

Remove the grommet securing the slave cylinder pipes to the bell housing.
Manoeuvre the release bearing and slave cylinder assembly from bell housing.


Install the new slave unit. Clean the release bearing and bearing guide mating faces. Lubricate bearing running surface with molybdenum disulphide grease.
Align slave cylinder pipes. Fit release bearing and secure clutch pipe grommet.

Position the new clutch plate (check it faces correctly) and align it with the pressure plate with the help of an alignment tool (21/70mm).

Working in a diagonal sequence progressively tighten pressure plate retaining bolts to 25Nm.
Remove crankshaft restraining socket.

All else in reverse order to re-fit.

Mike
Live long and prosper.

Adroitness and sensitivity in dealing with others or with difficult issues ( Tact. ) will always win the war.
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COLVERT
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Unread postby Michael » Wed May 24, 2017 9:28 am

Bloomin eck that's above my pay grade (mexican wave)
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Michael
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Unread postby COLVERT » Fri May 26, 2017 1:09 pm

Michael wrote:Bloomin eck that's above my pay grade (mexican wave)

A lot easier than moving home.--- (bang head against a wall) (bang head against a wall) (bang head against a wall) (bang head against a wall) (bang head against a wall) (bang head against a wall) (bang head against a wall)
Live long and prosper.

Adroitness and sensitivity in dealing with others or with difficult issues ( Tact. ) will always win the war.
User avatar
COLVERT
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Posts: 3737
Joined: Fri Jul 20, 2012 6:24 pm
Location: FRANCE

Unread postby baconbuttyman » Sat May 27, 2017 6:52 am

Very handy to know seeing my thrust bearing is on its way out lol,
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