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We cover all MG & Rover cars, We are the MG Owners Club & Rover Owners club, combined in one, from Rover 75 to MGZT, from Rover 800 to MGB, we are here for all your MG Rover MGR cars
 

How To's

Replacement of Rover 75 front anti roll bar bushes:

Unread postby Tourerfogey » Tue Feb 10, 2015 8:36 pm

Usual disclaimers apply – this is how I did it, but not necessarily how you should do it – that’s up to you . . .

This is essentially a simple job, hampered only by the fact that the bolts securing the bush clamps are somewhat difficult to get at.

The front of the car needs to be safely up on axle stands with the front wheels removed. If you don’t know how to do this safely then in my opinion you shouldn’t be attempting the job in the first place . . .

Before tackling the bolts securing the bush clamps I did the following:

Disconnected the track rod ends from the hubs – this meant the steering arms could be raised making a little more room for my hands!
Disconnected the roll bar from the lower end of the drop links – this made it easier to move the roll bar sufficiently to prise off the old bushes and fit the new

I then used a 10mm spanner / 10mm socket to remove the two bolts from each clamp. As already said they are difficult to access and you can only turn them a little at a time. Once the bolts are removed the two clamps were prised off the old bushes. The bushes are of the ‘split’ variety ie; they open up and fit round the roll bar. You can’t locate them in the wrong place because the roll bar has a collar on each side which the bushes butt up against – note: when fitting the bushes you don’t need and shouldn’t use any lubrication. You then need to refit the clamps. The original bolts are patch bolts and quote, ‘should be renewed’ – I chose to refit the originals but with thread locking compound; personally I see no reason not to do this but I’m not saying you should do the same – you need to make your own judgement on that.

Initially the 4 clamp bolts were not fully tightened – almost, but not quite. The same goes for the drop link to roll bar connection. The track rod ends however should be fully tightened with new lock nuts.

Only when the car was back on the ground on its wheels did I crawl underneath and fully tighten the 4 clamp bolts and the drop link nuts – as this needs to be done with the weight of the car on the suspension.

TF
It's a K Series . . . . keep topping it up . . . . it'll be fine . . . . . .
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Unread postby baconbuttyman » Wed Feb 11, 2015 9:43 am

Thanks Trevor, good explanation on how to do it. :)
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