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We cover all MG & Rover cars, We are the MG Owners Club & Rover Owners club, combined in one, from Rover 75 to MGZT, from Rover 800 to MGB, we are here for all your MG Rover MGR cars
 

How To's

How to adjust the idle & reset the throttle position

Unread postby baconbuttyman » Sat Feb 23, 2013 10:01 am

First make sure that the throttle cable is adjusted correctly, the throttle must be fully closed at idle with your foot off the pedal. To adjust slide the the black plastic adjuster nut out of its bracket and place it behind the bracket, you then adjust any slack out of the cable whilst ensuring that the throttle still fully closes. You then slide the plastic adjuster nut back into its bracket and in doing so this introduces the small amount of slack into the cable which the throttle requires to function correctly.

The concept of ensuring that the throttle is fully closed at idle is apparently alien to some mechanics who are not used to working on our engines. Some mistakenly think that you adjust the idle speed in the same way as cars of old by adjusting the throttle partially open, not on our cars you don't. Our cars have an idle air control valve (iacv) to take care of the idle speed and for it to do so the throttle needs to be closed.

After checking and if necessary adjusting the throttle cable you can then think about doing the throttle position reset procedure. During this procedure the ecu will learn the fully closed and the fully open throttle positions and it should be done with the engine at normal operating temperature:

1.Turn the ignition on to position 2...don't start the car.
2. Fully depress and release the throttle pedal 5 times in under 5 seconds.
3. You should then hear the iacv moving as the ecu activates it, wait until the noise stops..or wait as some say for 15 seconds.
4. Don't turn off the ignition, just start the engine without depressing the pedal and wait for the idle to stabilise.


Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk. Neither the MG Rover Owners Club nor the original authors in this thread can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following this thread's posts.
Any modifications should be reported to your insurance company.
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Unread postby rover54 » Mon Sep 09, 2013 9:04 pm

This 'how too' describes the resetting of the throttle potentiometer that tells the ECU how far the throttle butterfly is open. To actually set the idle you need a T4 as any tampering with the idle screw on 1.8's ( both NA and turbo) will cause problems. Ideally the idle setting needs to be checked on every service as there are close tolerances that need to be adhered too, it not just a matter of engine revs.

The problem is that people who don't know that the idle screw MUSTN'T be touched without the car hooked up to a T4 can create idle problems. Many of our cars have been through mechanics who don't know about this and merrily adjust idle speeds by the idle screw without reference to real time engine data that T4 exhibits.

More than happy to check your idle setting at one of the meets I attend, just look in the south east section T4 meets diary, first post will be updated when new dates are confirmed.
T4 Map
How to get home if clutch hydraulics have failed
T4 meets

Rover 75 SE V6 Royal Blue, Rover 75 V6 Contemporary SE Firefrost ,Rover 75 SE Platinum Gold and the baby, 1.8NA Cimarron Green

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Unread postby Dorchester » Thu Oct 05, 2017 8:35 pm

Resurrecting an old topic...

On my 'new' 75 V6 2.5 Connoisseur SE 1999 my mechanic has done a very good job but nevertheless he has a big concern with both VIS motors, brand new from DMGRS.
The idle revs are no longer 800 or less, but around 1,100!
He is a skilful guy but not a Rover specialist, and doesn't know how to go back to 800 revs and correct the idle.
After some researches, he swapped the back motor with the new one but kept the old power VIS one, and the revs came back under 800 revs.

But I'm not happy because Torque shows that I have 3 error codes: P1471, P1473 & P1477.

I was told that 'once you’ve removed the power vis you’ll be able to see the arm which the peg on the power motor locates into. The arm will move left and right, as per instructions move the arm to the UK driver’s side, which will be left if you’re standing in front of the radiator.
And that’s it. In the “left” position the new motor will then drop correctly into position when you refit the motor.
'

So I removed my power vis - the 'old' one because the mechanic told me that just after removing the old and refitting with the new one coming from DMGRS, the idle position became mad and refused to go lower than 1,200 revs - and I screwed the new one, checking that the arm was in right position as it was when I removed the old one.

And bingo, the throttle body was mad, I drove during nearly 12ml, and the figures on Torque were absolutely nonsensical, 11 when idling at 1,200 revs and sometimes less or more when driving at 60mph or more.

And mind that I had previously done the trick to re-settle the IACV TPS reset (engine warm - position 2 - 5 times slow push on the pedal during 30 seconds - wait 15 seconds - position 0 - then re-start the engine), but to no avail. The idling is still far too high.

Moreover my old power VIS shows 'MKE 100 101' when the new one shows 'MKE 100 102'. I don't know if this could explain that. Not exactly the same model even compatible nonetheless.

Then I fitted back the old one, taking great care of the arm position, and as by a kind of magic, the throttle body returned to a quiet and normal way of working, the idle being just below 800 revs.

But in each case the error codes P1471, P1473 & P1477 stubbornly remain.

And the car works fine, a real treat, maybe even more reactive and powerful with the weird power motor, but not surprisingly because the car at that moment didn't need my foot to drive at good speed!!!

What do you reckon of that?

Personally I rest my case: the main result is that the car is in good order and drives brilliantly, despite those ridiculous error codes that lots of people experienced (have a look on the web! the number of 'victims' of those P1471... is absolutely stunning).

Nevertheless at the moment, the engine feels a bit lazy at low revs, except if I use the kick down or the speed stabilizer.

But if someone has a good explanation, I'll be always glad and grateful.

N.B. 1: I read that a T4 would be very useful to adjust the throttle body, but my mechanic has none...

N.B. 2: and to add a little more to my confusion I should have added that
- at the very beginning, when I puchased the car, there were 2 error codes P1471 & P1477
- when the mechanic did a meticulous cleaning of the throttle body with a rag, getting the oil out (but before trying to swap the VIS motors), just one error code P1477 remained...

Any Sherlock Holmes here? (shrug)
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Unread postby Dorchester » Thu Oct 05, 2017 8:50 pm

Reading more closely @baconbuttyman instructions, I realized that my method possibly could have been wrong.

I depressed 5 times but slowly and in 30 seconds, and after waiting 15 seconds, I turn back the starter to 0 before starting the engine. A big difference, as it looks.

Is it very important to follow literally that procedure above??

Thanks a lot.

EDIT: assuming that one of my motors at least is faulty, I should be secure if I swap both of them with my DMGRS brand new ones, given - it's the important point - that I'm able to go back to a normal idle position, ie 800 revs or just below.
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Unread postby Dorchester » Fri Oct 06, 2017 9:24 am

Anyone here?

I'm glad to say that I've solved myself half of my problems.

I had another try half an hour ago with the 'pumping'. I fully depressed very quickly 5 or 6 times the accelerator pedal as I was told.
Afterwards I asked Torque to show me the error codes which stubbornly were remaining. The same ones.
I tried to clear the codes with Torque: no way!

Then I took a Chinese device I had bought 2 years ago, plugged in the OBD, and asked for the error codes.
It read P1471, P1472, P1475 & P1477.
I asked it to clear the codes, and it did it.

But just to be 100% sure, I refitted my ELM 327 and connecting Torque, I asked for the error codes once more.
He searched during one minute at least until 100% complete, and no longer any error code appears!
Bingo!
First problem solved. [funny-santa-dance

But I haven't the faintest clue about my second mystery:
why on earth my new VIS Power motor doesn't accept to work properly and makes the throttle body completely mad? (bang head against a wall)
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Unread postby Dorchester » Sat Oct 07, 2017 10:32 am

Nobody wanting to scratch his head?
So I give the solution.

DMGRS sells its VIS motors without their seal and doesn't warn of any issue inside the package, letting the customer struggling with a preposterous problem.
They told me they sell the VIS motor seals with.. the inlet manifold! (bang head against a wall)
But those seals are parts of their VIS motor and not at all parts of the IM!
Thus they told me I had to swap the seal from the old power motor to the new one.
And no apology! Shame! :evil:

Then I acted compulsorily.
And no longer any problem with the TPS or the idling. All is fine.

Shocking logic & shocking answer! :-o
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Unread postby COLVERT » Sat Oct 07, 2017 1:43 pm

Wow. Just read about all those struggles you had. Glad you got it sorted.

I've been away for a couple of days fitting new head lights to my R75. so just seen your post. Sorry.
Live long and prosper.

Adroitness and sensitivity in dealing with others or with difficult issues ( Tact. ) will always win the war.
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Unread postby Dorchester » Sat Oct 07, 2017 2:58 pm

No problem for thankfully I was able to help myself.
But it might be of interest for some other chap.

Are your new head lights conventional or LEDs or xenon ones?
In the latter case a pic will be nice maybe in another thread. Thanks.
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Unread postby MrDoodles » Tue Oct 10, 2017 10:39 pm

Any mechanic worth his salt, would have checked to see if there were seals on these before fitting them, so I would strongly suggest that you only let someone who's familiar with these cars, touch it again in future.

As for blaming Matt, it's well known that you have to swop the seals over, so I have to say with the number of people that Matt helps, that's poor form! :cry:
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Unread postby Dorchester » Wed Oct 11, 2017 8:56 am

"As for blaming Matt, it's well known that you have to swop the seals over"

I'm not blaming Matt. I've already bought from him some stuff without any problem and I am glad and grateful that there are still some good sellers like him for our Rover cars.

Now let's be honest.

Selling a high priced device without its proper seal (both those VIS motors cost me the same sum as my 4 TRW shock absorbers!), or not warning in a short notice (or on the web page) that there may be a dysfunction without one, selling the seal of a device (VIS motor) with another one (the manifold), it's obviously an unfortunate mistake and a source of useless problems for the consumer, mainly when he lives outside the UK and hence the car comes from a dead foreign brand.
For that matter Matt has apologized in his last Email he has just sent me yesterday and I thank him for that.
So the argument is closed and everybody is forgiven.

Probably my mechanic has done another mistake, he should have seen that a very little bit was abnormally missing, but I ensure you that he is a skilful one, zealous and painstaking, as Matt is I'm sure, and he had proved it but he has a lot of good cars to repair & maintain and cannot take ages to guess such a preposterous case, a device supplied without an essential tiny piece.
I did myself the job to order all the stuff he needed simply to help him, to avoid losing time at my expense and because we are not talking of a British mechanic repairing a British car within the UK, but a French one doing the job on a now unknown foreign car whose brand does no longer exist and whose pieces are very hard to find out here. And we (the mechanic & I) didn't meet with any other problem ordering or repairing that brilliant KV6.
I must add that I barely see another Rover car in my area (South West of France). They are long gone.

So your wise comment "I would strongly suggest that you only let someone who's familiar with these cars" is very well thought out, but of no use given what I've just said above: there are no longer any Rover dealer here but in a few crowded areas (mind you I'm living in the country in the middle of nowhere!), and the happy few mechanics knowing that very well-known KV6 shortcoming (and probably the only one) regarding the oil infecting sooner or later the VIS motors are now retired or very close to retirement.

At last I may apologize myself using possibly too harsh words in my previous post, but you may as well understand that I was very angry to have been in such a mess with my fantastic car for so ridiculous and so simple a motive.

I'm now looking forward. Thank you in advance for your kind understanding. ;-)
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Unread postby COLVERT » Thu Oct 12, 2017 7:37 pm

Pas d'un problem.--- ;-)

J'habit la France moi meme. De temps en temp difficile a trouver les piece detache.-- (shrug)
Live long and prosper.

Adroitness and sensitivity in dealing with others or with difficult issues ( Tact. ) will always win the war.
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Unread postby COLVERT » Thu Oct 12, 2017 7:51 pm

MrDoodles wrote:Any mechanic worth his salt, would have checked to see if there were seals on these before fitting them, so I would strongly suggest that you only let someone who's familiar with these cars, touch it again in future.

As for blaming Matt, it's well known that you have to swop the seals over, so I have to say with the number of people that Matt helps, that's poor form! :cry:



Hey, Mark.---Over here in France R75 mechanics are as rare as hens teeth.

I'm fortunate that I'm able to do all my repairs myself. Even changing tyres

A couple of days ago I fitted new LHD headlights as stick on deflectors are no longer allowed.

350 euros each. ( Made in Taiwan. !!! )--- (waaaaaah) :


Colvert.--- :-D
Live long and prosper.

Adroitness and sensitivity in dealing with others or with difficult issues ( Tact. ) will always win the war.
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